![]() ![]() I also filled any available cavities, such as the domes and smokebox saddle with custom-cast weights, and added more atop the frame between the drivers. I cut-down the existing boiler weight, leaving enough to hold the motor and gearbox, then replaced the missing weight with a new one cast from old wheel balancing weights, melted-down and poured into a mould. Unfortunately, there's not room for that much weight inside the boiler. saddle of sheet lead temporarily draped over its boiler. I first tested one to see if its motor could handle more weight, and was surprised to see that it could easily slip its drivers, even with a 22oz. I had bought two of these locos when they were first released, and decided to try to improve them. A really sweet runner, she had trouble moving her own shadow, let alone a train. She runs just fine with no flywheel, too.Īnother notoriously poor puller was the Athearn Mikado. While I was at it, I also lengthened the frame to accommodate the CNR-style front end, re-worked the rear of the frame, replaced all of the piping, lowered the running boards, added new details and re-built the foot boards and both the loco and tender. ![]() This more than doubled the loco's pulling power, so I decided to keep her, adding even more weight in the lead-filled brass air tanks. To keep the loco balanced, I added more lead inside the cab. I shortened the motor shaft and filled the cavity with more lead. I also removed the flywheel - it was so small that I couldn't see it being of much use. Since I don't like operating lights, I removed the small circuit board and wires for the headlight and filled the space with lead shaped to fit. I was going to get rid of it, but decided to have a look inside to see if there was room for adding some weight. Mine ran very nicely, but had trouble with more than two cars when operating on the grade where I intended to use it. Work that it removes them from the "easy-to-do" category. Readily-available room for added weight, while others require enough Some locomotives, like the Bachmann Berkshire, have lots of ![]() Personally, I wouldn't use traction tires or similar devices. If you use traction tires or treatments such as Bullfrog Snot, it's probably best to test the current draw to see if it's within the safe limits for the motor. If the drivers don't slip, your loco is too heavy and you run the risk of burning out the motor. If the drivers slip easily, you're well within the weight limits. An easy test for this is to place the loco on the track, then, while holding the tender with your hand, apply power. While I've never heard of excessive weight damaging gears, it can damage the motor. i have done that but it was too messy for my tastes, besides, beating lead with a hammer on an anvil satisfies my frustrations to some extent.Īs was mentioned, more weight added in the wrong place can have an adverse affect on pulling power - the ideal set-up is to keep the loco balanced at the centre-point of the driver wheelbase. Tungsten putty was mentioned but that stuff sells for around 8 bucks an ounce or more depending upon your source.Īn alternative would be to mix bird shot with elmers glue and pour it into place. this is not so much of an issue with switchers that run back and forth at slow speeds but road engines can destroy their gears pretty quickly if you add too much weight.Īlso, you want the wheels to still slip before you burn the motor out.īalance is important for most efficient operation but can be hard to achieve if you have limited space to add weight. ![]() i cut and shape the lead to fit into spaces inside the boiler cavity and epoxy it into place.Ī word of caution, just because you have the room, do not add too much weight or you can seriously damage the gear box. I had added weight to them using either sheet lead or lead wheel weights. my experience has all been with brass models. I have not tried adding weight to any of the late plastic steam loco models. ![]()
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